Whenever I look at my dog, I think of champagne cream sauce. And then, of course, what best goes under it. Why, sole (Dover) of course. Why has poaching gone out of style? Does everything have to be grilled or à la Meunière? Do perfectly delicate scallops have to be as caramelized as a Tarte Tatin? The color of Crème Brûlée?
What a wonderful piece--your aunt's diary gives a swoon of a glimpse into a world that is no more, and for many of us arm chair travelers, never could be. But what fun to visit! And I totally agree with the menu baby talk (personally hate the term "foodies" and "veggies") and the need to revive poaching over searing for the more delicate flesh offerings. Finally--that photo of you, slouching in your chair, with dog on leash, is fabulous! A look and attitude well-earned and worth aspiring to.
Jeremiah's brillance never dims--thank you for sharing your wonderful stories. By the way at Chez Fonfon the Friday special is a poached fresh fish, often red snapper or black grouper from our Gulf waters and the sauce is made with a fumet flavored court bouillon with reduced champagne, lots of leeks, mushrooms and little shrimp mounted with butter--most of the guests and our cooks have never encountered a poached fish dish and the overwhelming response is..." this is the best fish dish i have ever had...'
So true you are Jeremiah.
PS Jeremiah, do you remember Apalachicola gigged flounder dish you prepared decades ago at Chez Fonfon where you with the hands of a surgeon removed the backbone and stuffed the flounder with a crab mousseline and then we baked the dish--another phenomenal dish!
My dear Frank, crab mousseline indeed. Now that and your red snapper make me want to be at Fonton, and/or Paris' Chez Georges. And thank you dfor your brilliant compliments.
Oh marvel! Oh bring that shimmering cream to life doused in champagne. It’s difficult to imagine a more perfect flight of fancy, or a more delectable bite. Poaching is indeed a miracle of delicacy. Perhaps we lack delicacy these days? Adored your starting pix as well.
You gave me a good belly laugh with that first line. And you made me hungry with the rest!
It's interesting moving from SF to LA, I don't cook as much here because the produce isn't nearly as good and what is marginally acceptable is a 20 minute drive from me (in Beverly Hills) in any direction. But you've inspired me so tonight, I'll aim for something more than champagne and buttered toast.
I'm not a hot dog fan either. The only hot dog I might consider is one covered in corn bread and mustard. Now that's a 4th of July splurge!
In honor of your dog I have been craving sole. Last night I walked two blocks to the handsome Zinc Bistro (104F in Scottsdale). They featured a Sole Meunière, sadly no champagne sauce. I thoroughly enjoyed it and the chef has a nice technique of rolling each filet. They are then moist and lacking those dry bits that often occur because sole is so thin and delicate. Cheers.
What a wonderful piece--your aunt's diary gives a swoon of a glimpse into a world that is no more, and for many of us arm chair travelers, never could be. But what fun to visit! And I totally agree with the menu baby talk (personally hate the term "foodies" and "veggies") and the need to revive poaching over searing for the more delicate flesh offerings. Finally--that photo of you, slouching in your chair, with dog on leash, is fabulous! A look and attitude well-earned and worth aspiring to.
Thank youi, Nancy, best appreciation of slouching ever!
Jeremiah's brillance never dims--thank you for sharing your wonderful stories. By the way at Chez Fonfon the Friday special is a poached fresh fish, often red snapper or black grouper from our Gulf waters and the sauce is made with a fumet flavored court bouillon with reduced champagne, lots of leeks, mushrooms and little shrimp mounted with butter--most of the guests and our cooks have never encountered a poached fish dish and the overwhelming response is..." this is the best fish dish i have ever had...'
So true you are Jeremiah.
PS Jeremiah, do you remember Apalachicola gigged flounder dish you prepared decades ago at Chez Fonfon where you with the hands of a surgeon removed the backbone and stuffed the flounder with a crab mousseline and then we baked the dish--another phenomenal dish!
Outstanding, Frank!!!
My dear Frank, crab mousseline indeed. Now that and your red snapper make me want to be at Fonton, and/or Paris' Chez Georges. And thank you dfor your brilliant compliments.
Oh marvel! Oh bring that shimmering cream to life doused in champagne. It’s difficult to imagine a more perfect flight of fancy, or a more delectable bite. Poaching is indeed a miracle of delicacy. Perhaps we lack delicacy these days? Adored your starting pix as well.
A delicate touch here and there now would be very welcome!
How true! Well said Jen.
Love that photo of you.
Thank you my dear!
Great picture mate!!! That first line just cracked me up...
Thank you matey, and hope to see you soon.
That would be wonderful, btw Big Sur was amazing!!!
It seems Ventana is still a mess, many mgrs walking out, or so it was reported to us, but many a lovelly afternoon spent on the terrace of Nepenthe!!
If you were to take over at Ventana again..we would be there the next day!! Ha!! Many fond mems of Nepenthe as well...
Nice fantasy!
Bravo about culinary baby talk! Crispy indeed.
Thank you Paul, and we are, I think, in the minority.
You gave me a good belly laugh with that first line. And you made me hungry with the rest!
It's interesting moving from SF to LA, I don't cook as much here because the produce isn't nearly as good and what is marginally acceptable is a 20 minute drive from me (in Beverly Hills) in any direction. But you've inspired me so tonight, I'll aim for something more than champagne and buttered toast.
I'm not a hot dog fan either. The only hot dog I might consider is one covered in corn bread and mustard. Now that's a 4th of July splurge!
Yes, that Santa Monica open market fabulous but a drive!
In honor of your dog I have been craving sole. Last night I walked two blocks to the handsome Zinc Bistro (104F in Scottsdale). They featured a Sole Meunière, sadly no champagne sauce. I thoroughly enjoyed it and the chef has a nice technique of rolling each filet. They are then moist and lacking those dry bits that often occur because sole is so thin and delicate. Cheers.
Must try that!