22 Comments

What a wonderful piece--your aunt's diary gives a swoon of a glimpse into a world that is no more, and for many of us arm chair travelers, never could be. But what fun to visit! And I totally agree with the menu baby talk (personally hate the term "foodies" and "veggies") and the need to revive poaching over searing for the more delicate flesh offerings. Finally--that photo of you, slouching in your chair, with dog on leash, is fabulous! A look and attitude well-earned and worth aspiring to.

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Jeremiah's brillance never dims--thank you for sharing your wonderful stories. By the way at Chez Fonfon the Friday special is a poached fresh fish, often red snapper or black grouper from our Gulf waters and the sauce is made with a fumet flavored court bouillon with reduced champagne, lots of leeks, mushrooms and little shrimp mounted with butter--most of the guests and our cooks have never encountered a poached fish dish and the overwhelming response is..." this is the best fish dish i have ever had...'

So true you are Jeremiah.

PS Jeremiah, do you remember Apalachicola gigged flounder dish you prepared decades ago at Chez Fonfon where you with the hands of a surgeon removed the backbone and stuffed the flounder with a crab mousseline and then we baked the dish--another phenomenal dish!

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Oh marvel! Oh bring that shimmering cream to life doused in champagne. It’s difficult to imagine a more perfect flight of fancy, or a more delectable bite. Poaching is indeed a miracle of delicacy. Perhaps we lack delicacy these days? Adored your starting pix as well.

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Love that photo of you.

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Great picture mate!!! That first line just cracked me up...

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Bravo about culinary baby talk! Crispy indeed.

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You gave me a good belly laugh with that first line. And you made me hungry with the rest!

It's interesting moving from SF to LA, I don't cook as much here because the produce isn't nearly as good and what is marginally acceptable is a 20 minute drive from me (in Beverly Hills) in any direction. But you've inspired me so tonight, I'll aim for something more than champagne and buttered toast.

I'm not a hot dog fan either. The only hot dog I might consider is one covered in corn bread and mustard. Now that's a 4th of July splurge!

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founding

In honor of your dog I have been craving sole. Last night I walked two blocks to the handsome Zinc Bistro (104F in Scottsdale). They featured a Sole Meunière, sadly no champagne sauce. I thoroughly enjoyed it and the chef has a nice technique of rolling each filet. They are then moist and lacking those dry bits that often occur because sole is so thin and delicate. Cheers.

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