CHAMPAGNE DOGS

Whenever I look at my dog, I think of champagne cream sauce.

And then, of course, what best goes under it. Why, sole (Dover) of course.

Why has poaching gone out of style? Does everything have to be grilled or à la Meunière? Do perfectly delicate scallops have to be as caramelized as a Tarte Tatin? The color of Crème Brûlée?