EL CABRÕN MEZCAL AND ME: RECIPES WITH MEZCAL

Mezcal Old Fashioned

In Puerto Vallarta we were suddenly struck by thirst.

‘Let’s make Old Fashions.’

Then I realized we’d ran out Bourbon, their main component. But did have Mezcal, so I thought why not give it a try? The result was a smokier and delicious version on the classic Old Fashion. It’s been one of our favorite cocktails ever since.

A few days later we were dining at Joe Jack’s Fish Shack in the center of town, and the bartender asked what we’d like. We ordered Mezcal Old Fashions. I walked him through how we had made them. His were perfect and delicious. So much so that Jack, the owner, stopped by and wanted to try one as well. Then for a long time after, it was on the menu “JT’s Mezcal Old Fashion.”

1 teaspoon agave or simple syrup

2 dashes angostura bitters

2 ounces mezcal

orange twist

ice cubes

Put the agave or simple syrup, Angostura bitters and mezcal into a chilled “bucket” glass and stir. Fill with ice cubes. Garnish with an orange twist.

Mezcal Cucumber Shooters

Refreshing and perfect to serve on a hot summer day by the pool or as a pre-lunch or dinner mood lifter that is quick and easy to prepare ahead of time. These shooters were created to impress the guests at one of the last pre-pandemic Pebble Beach Food & Wine festivals. We had been advised to have 2000 “tastes” on hand. Since we were near the entrance and had huge portraits above our display table, I knew we would be swamped. Something fast, simple, but with big impact was the order of the day.

Almost all of the other restaurant and bar staffs working near us were underwhelmed when I said we were serving shooters, but soon there was a line out the door and people were coming back for seconds and thirds and more.

Serves 10

1 large english cucumber about 14 oz

9 ounces mezcal

¹/² cup fresh lime juice

1 2.5 ounce piece of fresh ginger peeled, coarsely chopped

fine sea salt

3 tablespoons fresh mint leaves coarsely chopped

¹/² teaspoon fresh red serrano or fresno chile seeded, stemmed, ribs removed, minced

Peel the cucumber and cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces. Cut one of the pieces in half lengthwise, seed, cut into small dice, and reserve for garnish. Transfer the remaining cucumber pieces to a blender with the mezcal, lime juice, agave, ginger, and a pinch of salt, and purée. Add the mint and pulse 5 to 6 times to incorporate. Let the flavors infuse for 30 minutes. Strain the contents through a fine-mesh strainer, cover, and refrigerate until cold.

Pour the mezcal mixture into chilled shot glasses, and garnish some of the reserved diced cucumber and the minced chile.

Sour (Seville) Orange-Sichuan Pepper Salt

In a moment of madness I might flavor the rim of the Negroni glass with this salt. Especially with a mezcal Margarita or Old Fashioned. But it is also perfect for tropical fruit, eaten Yucatecan style, or sprinkled on food just before serving. You will become addicted to flavored salts and figure out endless variations by yourself. Any of the citrus family will work, although I have my doubts about grapefruit salt unless you use it on fruits, especially tropical ones or watermelon.

Flavored salts will last for a month in a covered jar without losing too much potency.

Proportions are not written in stone but think two-thirds pepper to one-third citrus peel. And why not add a little bit of cumin, cardamom, or fenugreek?

1 large Seville  orange

1/2 cup Sichuan peppercorns

2 cups kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 200°F. Remove the zest from the orange with a vegetable peeler, in

strips, being sure not to include the white pith. Lay the zest in a single layer on a plate

and place it in the oven until dry, about an hour. The peel must be completely dry.

Remove the plate from the oven and let the dried zest cool.

Toast the peppercorns in a hot but not scorching frying pan until fragrant, about 2

minutes. Dump them out immediately onto paper towels and allow them to cool.

Mix the rind, peppercorns, and salt together. Grind in a spice mill or food processor

with a very sharp blade until uniformly smooth.

Ceviche

With shots of mezcal, or pour a couple of shots into the ceviche.

3 Habanero Chilis

3/4 lb Shrimp

1/2 cup Fresh orange juice

1 1/2 lb Fish Fillets

1 cup Fresh lime juice

1 lg Sweet onion such as Vidalia

Cut the fish in 1/4-inch slices; remove any bones as you go. Place the fish in a glass or glazed ceramic dish large enough to hold it in one layer. Shell and devein the shrimp, rinsing them only if necessary to rid them of grit.

Slice the shrimp in half lengthwise or butterfly them. Layer the shrimp over the fish.

Slice the onion in half lengthwise, then crosswise in thin slices. Layer the onion over the fish and shrimp.

Stem, seed and sliver the Habaneros and scatter them over the onions. Season the dish with salt and pour on the lime and orange juices.

Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 8 hours or overnight, or until the fish and shrimp are opaque. Serve at cool room temperature.

Stuffed Eggs 

I adore stuffed eggs and have enjoyed them in many places in many different versions. In the Yucatan with grilled, peeled and sliced red and green poblano chilies and once with the Mexican black truffle – cuitlacoche. In Puglia with cooked lobster scraps (along with the tomalley and fat in the shell) after buying the lobsters to make a salad. In the South of France with cumin, fresh mint, salted almonds,  pistachios, and salt-preserved lemons. And in Perigord with fresh black truffles.

Here is a Mexican version of mine. Perfect with a shot or two of El Cabrón mezcal.

Serves 4-6

16 large eggs

2 large fresh poblano chilies

½ cup sour cream

2 tablespoons Hellman’s mayonnaise

1 teaspoon ground cumin seeds

2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

large pinch salt

large pinch chili powder

Put the eggs in a heavy pan and cover them with cold water by one inch. Then bring to the point just before a boil, remove from the heat, cover, and let stand 10 minutes. Then run cold water over them, adding ice if you are in a hurry, until they are cool enough to peel. 

Roast the chilies over a fire on over a gas stove until the skin is charred all over. Put them in a plastic bag just large enough to hold them, twist the top closed, and leave the chilies for 30 minutes. Take them out, cut off the top and bottom, flatten out the chilies: on the inside scrap off the ribs and seeds and on the outside scrape off the skin. Save any juices and strain.

Peel the eggs, cut in half lengthwise, remove and mash up the egg yolks with the sour cream, mayonnaise, cumin, and mint. Add half the salt, mix, and taste. Add more salt if desired. Stuff the whites with the yolk puree, and sprinkle with the chili powder or garnish with BBQ sauce.

Cornmeal Blinis with Smoked Fish

As irresistible as food can get!

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1/2 teaspoon salt

11/2 cups boiling water

2 eggs

1 cup milk

1/2 cup sifted all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons melted butter

3/4 cup warm clarified butter 

3 tablespoons sour cream

1 cup smoked Marlin or other local fish, shredded

Chilled El Cabrón mezcal

Serves 6

Mix the cornmeal and salt and stir in the boiling water. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time; then slowly stir in the milk. Mix in the flour and 2 tablespoons melted butter; beat until the mixture is smooth. The batter should be the consistency of heavy cream; if it is too thick, thin with a little more

Brush a well-seasoned crêpe pan with clarified butter and heat. When the pan is hot, pour in about 3 tablespoons batter and tilt the pan to distribute the batter evenly. Cook until the underside is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and cook the other side another 1 to 2 minutes.

Put each blini on a hot plate and pour 3 tablespoons clarified butter over the blini. Put 1 tablespoon sour cream in the center of each blini, then 1 heaping tablespoon sturgeon on the cream and serve immediately, with shots of ‘frozen’ mezcal.

Have a drink of the cold mezcal, wait a few seconds, and follow with the blini.

Chocolate Lava Cake with Cabrón Crème Anglaise

Pick your favorite recipe for the Lava Cake and serve with this amazing custard.

The crème anglaise or custard

1/2 cup granulated sugar

6 egg yolks

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 cups whole milk

1 1-inch piece vanilla bean

¼ cup mezcal

Ice, to make an ice bath to make an ice bath

Mix the sugar, yolks, and salt in a large, heat safe mixing bowl and whisk until pale yellow (about 5 minutes).

Heat the milk and vanilla bean together until almost boiling and pour slowly into the yolk mixture while whisking.

Cook over simmering water in a double boiler, stirring constantly, until the custard begins to thicken and coats the spoon.

Add the mezcal and mix in well.

Remove from heat and place over an ice bath to cool, stirring constantly with a spoon—this prevents the custard from overcooking (curdling) and forming a skin when it cools.

Strain and serve. If not ready to serve right away, you can refrigerate it for up to a week in an airtight container.

El Cabrón mezcal was released in limited quantities in 2024. It will again be available in early Spring 2025, in four varieties.

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