16 Comments

Surely the most offensive word in the culinary dictionary is "crispy." What's wrong with plain old "crisp"?

Expand full comment

Precisely, and what is?

Expand full comment

Just returned from a very brief visit to Malaga where they have uncovered a whole street of garum fermenters just below the Alcazaba since I was last there around 1998

Expand full comment

Ah, those Arabs. Part of their cusine I guiess.

Expand full comment

Another great column and another book on order from Amazon. The sauce that you mentioned is one that I have tinkered with recently. For me finding the best fish sauce was key. They differ noticeably from brand to brand. I also try to age it for a while before serving. On Wednesday I attended a Champagne themed dinner at my favorite bistro and as an appetizer had an oyster 🦪 with veal marrow and a touch of white pepper for heat. Brilliant.

Expand full comment

I guess a hot oyster? And veal marrow- yes brilliant. Wish I was there.

Expand full comment

At the risk of sounding like a pedestrian, (well deserved, I'm afraid) do you like Red Boat?

Expand full comment

Red Boat is fine and their higher priced deluxe sauce is good for certain dishes. Squid is also tasty, Three Crabs, and Abalone are also good. In a pinch I have substituted colatura and nobody noticed.

Expand full comment

I am sure that all your 'pinches' are masterpieces.

Expand full comment

I couldn’t help but use “juicy” in my last essay. But I did so with extreme hesitation. 🌸

Expand full comment

Ha ha ha! Excellent.

Expand full comment

I love fresh durian, but I have a hard time convincing anyone that it's fresh.

For offending your nose, you should have had that unfrozen chef's wages garnished.

Expand full comment

You are right, way more offensive than any Durian.

Expand full comment

I absolutely love how you dismantle the common myth and lore or culinary rule. The ice water bath was a new one to me, but makes sense.

Expand full comment

And I absolutely love your comments!

Expand full comment

😂😂😂

Expand full comment