Elizabeth Law de Lauriston Bourbers, known as “Lily,” married Jacques Bollinger and took over the management of the firm when he died 20 years earlier in 1941. And became a travelling ambassador for the house of Bollinger. At a lunch in London, as reported by the Daily Mail, a reporter asked her why and when she drank Champagne:
“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I’m thirsty.”
I feel the same way about sauces.
Here are some ‘simple’ ones that have a big impact.
Montpellier Butter
This greatest of all “compound” butters is traditionally made in a mortar with a pestle, but a food processor will do. It is very good with cold poached fish, especially salmon, but is equally delicious with hot grilled fish. Spooned between slices of cold roast veal or pork, the slices reassembled, left for a day, and served at room temperature, it creates a lifelong memory.